This first one is Ukrainian,
from the Khmel'nytsky oblast [administrative region]. Which is part of Eastern Podillia, the section which was under the Muscovite rather than the Austrian Empire. The upper portion of the embroidery is done in flat stitch, also called counted satin stitch, in white thread on off white linen. Between the motifs are diagonal lines of outline/holbein stitch also in white, over 4 threads, most likely. The outlines are composed of braid or long legged cross stitch, with a wave design in between also of outline or Holbein Stitch. There are large cross stitches in red and black seperating the areas of flat stitch. The second design, which occurs at the level where the sleeve is no longer stiched to the body of the shirt, but to the piece of cloth which forms the inside portion of the sleeve, is usually somewhat longer. In this case, with black and white flat and outline stitches with accents in red and yellow, echoing the upper design. [for the cut of the chemise, see my first blog enty, Podillian Pillow Embroidery]
The vertical stripes, which continue down to the wristband, are composed of a black outline stitch design.
Ukrainian shirts of this type often have 3 completely different designs, whereas Romanian shirts often have the top and bottom designs based on the same motifs.
This design is published in the book 'Ukrainske Narodne Dekoratywne Mystetsvo' 'Ukrainian Decorative Folk Art' subtitle 'Dekoratywne Tkanyny' or 'Decorative textiles' Head Editor V. Zabolotny, Kiev, 1956.
There is an old tradition of artists painting designs like this, i assume because the available photographs were black and white, and of very poor quaility up untill quite recently. The Artist who painted this image was V. Kasian. Many older books, and even some recent ones, are full of Artist's images like this. It is an art form in and of itself.
The chart is from the book 'Broderii Traditionale si Artizanale Moldovenesti' by Ibrian and Dunare, Bucarest, 1984.
Happy stitching, i hope this inspires some of you.
Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance.