Saturday, February 22, 2020

Costume and Embroidery of the Turya River Valley, Transcarpathia, Ukraine

Hello all, 
Today I will talk a bit about the Turya Ту́р'я river valley region of Zakarpattia.  This region is shown on the map above as number 3.  The Turiya river flows into the Uzh at Perechyn.
The polychrome embroidery is not similar to that of the neighboring valleys, but does resemble Rusyn embroidery from further west in Slovakia. 

Here above is an embroidered woman's shirt from the village of Poroshkovo.


Here is the front of a woman's shirt from the village of Tur'ya Polyana.

 Here is a chemise from this area being shown at an exhibit in the1920's. Note that the opening on this garment is on the side.


Here is embroidery from a man's shirt from the village of Poroshkovo.


This is a reconstruction of the shirt

This is a married woman's cap, chepets, from this valley.

I believe that this costume is from this region, even though the skirt is white. Compare the chepets. 

This photo may be from this region.

This photograph was labelled Irshava region, but it must be from this valley, as it does not resemble the Irshava costume.

 The following images are taken from Amalie Kozminova's 'Podkarpatska Rus -Prace a zivot', published in Czechoslovakia in 1922. they depict this region.

Here we see the entire costume, boots, skirt, apron, chemise, chepets, and one woman is wearing a shoulder shawl.



 Here we see a couple standing in front of a painted barn.

 Here we see women embroidering inside a painted barn. 


 Woven rushnyky from this region, from the village of Kamianytsia. They also seem to be in the image above. 

Here are images of embroidery from this area from Amalie's book.

Some closeups

Shirt embroideries from this valley.

The following are from 'L'Art Populaire en Russie Subcarpathique' by S. Makovski, printed in Prague in 1926.

Sleeve embroidery from the village of Solochyn.


Embroidery from the villages of Holubyna and Poroshkovo


Embroideries, the first two from Poroshkovo, the third from Turya Bystra.

Embroideries from Poroshkovo, Ploske, and two from Holubyne.


Embroidery, two from Poroshkovo, and one from Holubyne. The top and bottom ones are probably cuffs, or maybe collars.

The following embroideries are all from the village of Zarichovo, on the Uzh river  just upstream of the confluence with the Turiya.

Shoulder inset of a woman's shirt.


 Collar of woman's shirt.


 The rest of these are embroideries from mens' shirts, cuff, collar, and front opening.



Some of these last show influence of Hutsul embroidery, which was imitated over a wide area of Ukraine. 

here are a couple images from a Transcarpathian fashion show, possibly showing garments from this region. Compare to images above. 

The hair should not be hanging down under the chepets, but rather braided or twisted and tucked up underneath it. 

And that is all that I have on this costume. I do not know if it, or the memory of it, survives in the Turya valley today, but this is an interesting costume and deserves to be remembered. 

Thank you for reading, I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative.

Roman K