"Ongniud" is a Mongolian word, the name of an ancient Mongolian tribe. "Ongniud" means "sacred mountain," reflecting the tribe's worship of a mountain god.
According to the *Mongolian Nomadic Records*, Nochuin, the third brother of the Yuan Dynasty's founder, had a descendant named Mongkechahan Noyan, who had two sons. The elder son, Bayandaqing Hongguer Noyan, named his tribe Ongniud. Additionally, some descendants of Belgutei settled east of the Greater Khingan Mountains. According to Mongolian historical records, their tribe became known as Ongniud.
The Ongniud, along with the Arukorchin, Sizibu, Maoming'an, Urad, Abaga, and Abahanar tribes, were collectively known as the Aru (Aruk) Mongols, residing in the Hulunbuir region. During the Ming Dynasty, they migrated to the Xilin Gol and Chifeng areas of Inner Mongolia.
After the founding of the People's Republic of China, the Ongniud Left Banner was renamed Ongniud Banner, a name that remains to this day, and it is under the jurisdiction of Chifeng City, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region.
"Naiman" is a Mongolian word which was the name of an ancient Mongolian tribe. "Naiman" means "eight."
According to the Draft History of the Qing Dynasty, Dayan Chechen Khan (Dayan Khan), a fifteenth-generation descendant of Genghis Khan, roamed the Khangai Mountains north of the Gobi Desert, calling his tribe the Khalkha. His eldest son, Turuborot, migrated from the Khangai Mountains to the Gobi Desert during the Ming Dynasty, crossing the Laoha River to the south. Turuborot's second son, Namiq, had a son named Bema Tushetu, whose eldest son, Daiqing Dulen, led a tribe called Aohan; his second son, Esenwei Zheng Noyan, used Naiman as the name of his tribe.
The Naiman tribe was incorporated into the Qing Dynasty in 1627, located on the south bank of the confluence of the Xilamulun River and the Laoha River. It bordered the Khorchin to the east, the Tumd to the south, the Aohan to the west, and the Ongniud to the north. They held an alliance meeting at Zhaowuda, and the Naiman Banner was under the jurisdiction of that league. After 1945, the Naiman Banner came under the jurisdiction of the Jerim League. The Naiman tribe is now mainly distributed in Naiman Banner, Tongliao City, Inner Mongolia.
Aohan
"Aohan" is a Mongolian word, the name of an ancient Mongolian tribe. "Aohan" means "eldest."
According to the *Draft History of the Qing Dynasty*, Dayan Chechen Khan (Dayan Khan), a fifteenth-generation descendant of Genghis Khan, roamed the Khangai Mountains north of the Gobi Desert, calling his tribe the Khalkha. His eldest son, Turubolot, migrated from the Khangai Mountains to roam the Gobi Desert during the Ming Dynasty, crossing the Laoha River to the south. Turubolot's second son, Namik, had a son named Bema Tushetu, who had two sons. The eldest son, Daiqingduleng, named his tribe Aohan.
At the end of the Ming Dynasty, during the reign of Ligdan Khan of the Chahar tribe, Daiqingduleng, who belonged to the Chahar, could no longer endure Ligdan Khan's tyranny. He and his brother, Esenwei Zheng Noyan, left the Chahar tribe and roamed the middle reaches of the Laoha River, dividing the land originally occupied by the Khalkha tribe on both banks of the Laoha River. Daiqingduleng resided in the southwest, calling his tribe Aohan. In the first year of the Chongde reign of the Qing Dynasty (1638), the Aohan tribe was organized into 55 Zuo-ling Aohan Banner, belonging to Zhaowuda League, and stationed in what is now Aohan Banner, Chifeng, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, where it continues to this day.
Kharchin
Not to be confused with Khorchin.
"Karachin" is a Mongolian word, the name of an ancient Mongolian tribe. It means "important person" or "great person," and also "guardian."
The ancestor of the Kharachin tribe was Jelme, a meritorious official of Genghis Khan, belonging to the Uriankhai clan. Uriankhai was also transliterated in ancient historical records as "Uliangha," "Ulianghai," "Ulianghan," etc. Although the transliterations differ, the meaning is the same: all are translations of "Uriankhai." According to the *Mongolian Nomadic Records*, Jelme, son of the Yuan dynasty official Zharchutai, belonged to the Uriankhai clan and assisted Genghis Khan in establishing the empire. Seven generations later, in Hetong, there were 6,000 households who nomadically grazed along the Echin River, calling their tribe "Kharachin." In 1626, they submitted to the Later Jin dynasty, and in 1635, the Qing government organized the Kharachin tribe into left and right banners. The Kharachin tribe is currently mainly distributed in Kharachin Banner, Chifeng City, Inner Mongolia, and also over the border in neighboring areas of Liaoning Province.
Southwestern Group
These tribes also have a certain commonality in their folk costume. The women's headdresses consist of a cap with long extensive hanging jewelry, as exemplified by the clothing of the Üzemchin and the Chahar. They are shown in a dull light turquoise in the central regions on this map.
Üzemchin
Also written Ujumchin, Ujumucin or Ujimqin.
"Ujumchin" is the name of an ancient Mongolian tribe. Their ancestors were nomads in the Khangai Mountains of Mongolia, an area rich in wild grapes.
During the reign of Genghis Khan, Dayan Khan, a 15th-generation descendant of Genghis Khan, unified the various tribes of Southern Mongolia. To further consolidate and strengthen the Southern Mongolian region, he transferred the tribe led by his eldest son, Tulubolod, from the Khangai Mountains in Northern Mongolia to Southern Mongolia. Tulubolod's eldest son, Bodiarak, and his third son, Onggundular, became the leader of the Ujumchin tribe. Onggundular's son, Dorjichechen Jinong, was at odds with the Chahar tribe and led his people to join the Khalkha Chechen Khan in Northern Mongolia. In 1637, the Ujumchin tribe returned from Northern Mongolia and submitted to the Qing Dynasty. In 1761, the Qing government implemented the league and banner system in Southern Mongolia, placing the five tribes of Ujumchin, Abaga, Sunid, Abahanar, and Haoqid—comprising ten banners—under the jurisdiction of the Xilin Gol League. In 1949, East Ujimqin Banner and West Ujimqin Banner were combined into the Eastern United Banner. In 1956, the Eastern United Banner was abolished, and the original names of East and West Ujimqin Banners were restored, which remain in use today.
This tribe is found in Dornod Province in the Republic of Mongolia, and in the Ujumchin banners of inner Mongolia.
Khishigten
"Keshiketeng" is the name of an ancient Mongolian tribe. The tribe's name comes from the word "Kheshig," the plural form of Genghis Khan's guards.
During the Mongol Empire, Keshiketeng was a guard unit, with soldiers taking turns on duty. This system continued until the end of the Northern Yuan Dynasty. During the reign of Dayan Khan of the Northern Yuan, the Keshiketeng tribe belonged to the Chahar Wanhu (a military unit), serving as a guard force within the personal army.
According to the *Draft History of the Qing Dynasty*, Ochirbolod, the sixteenth-generation descendant of Genghis Khan, passed down to Sharalda, who was called Morgen Noyan. His tribe was called the Keshiketeng Banner, and they held an alliance meeting at Zhaowuda. The Keshiketeng tribe is currently mainly distributed in Hexigten Banner, Chifeng City, Inner Mongolia.
Huuchid or Khochid
In early 1949, the United Left Banner was established after the merger of the Haoqite Left Banner, the Ujumqin Right Banner, and the Ujumqin Left Banner. The United Left Banner was divided into eight sumu (townships). The original Haoqite Left Banner was designated as the First Sumu, and the original Ujumqin Right Banner was divided into six sumu, numbered Second to Seventh. The original Ujumqin Left Banner was designated as the Eighth Sumu. In the autumn of 1956, the United Left Banner was divided into two parts. The northern parts of the original Ujumqin Left Banner and the Ujumqin Right Banner were merged into the Ujumqin Left Banner, meaning the Eighth, Seventh, and Third Sumu of the United Left Banner were merged into one banner. The southern parts of the original Haoqite Left Banner and the Ujumqin Right Banner were merged into the Ujumqin Right Banner, and the First, Second, Fourth, and Fifth Sumu of the United Left Banner were merged into one banner. The newly established Ujumqin Right Banner was divided into five sumu. The Bayingol Sumu was composed of herders from the original Haoqite Left Banner, which was part of the First Banner of the United Left Banner.
Abaga
Abaga Sunit clothing includes the clothing of the two Abaga banners on the left and right, the two Abhahanar banners on the left and right, and the two Sunit banners on the left and right. Although the clothing of these banners belongs to the same type in terms of style, there are certain differences in style and production method.
Sunit
The Sunit Grassland stretches as far as the eye can see, teeming with wild flora and fauna. Herds of gazelles roam the northern plains and hills, while foxes, hares, and lynxes frequently roam the southern sand dunes and mountains. The Engel River basin and numerous lakes scattered throughout the banner provide habitat for swans, geese, cranes, and red-billed ducks. Deep within the grassland grows the prized black moss, a fungus with high nutritional value and medicinal properties for treating hypertension. The supply and marketing cooperatives and local product departments purchase large quantities of black moss annually, selling it as far as Guangzhou and other places. The red-topped boots with patterned designs on the shafts and high-turned toes are unique to the Sunit Grassland. Otherwise, their attire is identical to that of the Ujumqin people.They are found in the Sonid banners.
Chahar
The Chahar tribe originally belonged to Shangdu during the Yuan Dynasty, later becoming a direct subordinate of Dayan Khan's Khanate. Subsequently, the Ujumchin and Sunid tribes also became part of the Chahar. During the Qing Dynasty, it was incorporated into the Eight Banners of Mongolia. While Chahar clothing retains characteristics of clothing from various regions of Mongolia, its patterns possess their own unique style. However, due to the vast territory and scattered settlements of the Chahar tribe, coupled with differences in natural environment, economic conditions, and customs, there are also differences in clothing among the various banners. The Chahar clothing described here includes the clothing of the Eight Banners of Chahar and the Four Banners of Suluk.
Durbent or Sizi
Not to be confused with the Dörbet Oirat. Both tribal names are based on the Mongolian word for 'four'.
The Duerbote tribe, also known as the Four Sons tribe, is situated on the rolling hills of the Xilachahan Grassland at the northern foot of the Yinshan Mountains. In spring and summer, the grasslands are lush and green, with wildflowers blooming everywhere. Cattle and sheep graze leisurely, and larks sing. The winding Xilamori Gole (a type of grassland) adds a unique touch to the landscape. During the Tiancong era of the Later Jin dynasty, Omubu, the first Zasak (prince) of Duerbote, led 28 sumu (townships) under his jurisdiction, following an imperial edict from the Qing court, to this place. They lived among cattle, sheep, and larks, watching the sunset and the lone wild goose, resting on the withered grass and dreaming of the rising sun. They recuperated, multiplied, and have remained herding there ever since.
Muumyangan and Darhan
The clothing of Darhan Mumingan refers to the traditional attire of the former Darhan Beile Banner and Mumingan Banner. Darhan Beile Banner, also known as the Right Wing Banner of Khalkha, was a direct descendant of the seven Khalkha tribes. The Mumingan tribe originally inhabited the Hulunbuir grasslands and were descendants of Habutu Hasar. In the early Qing Dynasty, both the Right Wing Banner of Khalkha and the Mumingan tribe arrived at what is now the Darhan Mumingan grasslands and have remained there ever since.
Tumed
The Tumed are one of the ancient tribes of the Mongol people. Since the 15th century, the Tumed tribe grazed their herds in the vast area north and south of the Daqing Mountains, developing the beautiful and fertile Tumed Plain, which thus became one of the important pastoral areas for the Mongols during the Northern Yuan Dynasty. In the 1560s, after Altan Khan became the leader of the Tumed tribe, they quickly grew powerful and made outstanding contributions to the political, economic, and cultural development of the entire Mongol nation, as well as to the evolution of Mongol clothing. During the Qing Dynasty, although the clothing of the Tumed Mongols was influenced by some Manchu official attire, it still maintained the inherent characteristics of Mongol clothing in its overall style. In the early Republic of China period, the Tumed Mongols still retained various styles of traditional clothing. Here, we mainly introduce the basic situation of Tumed men's and women's clothing and wedding attire in the early Republic of China period.
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Urad of Bayanur
The Hetao Plain in western Inner Mongolia, nurtured by the Yellow River, is fertile and abundant in water, producing fragrant fruits and vegetables, earning it the reputation of "Jiangnan beyond the Great Wall." The Yinshan Mountains stretch endlessly, like a towering ridge. The Wuliangsuohai Lake is adorned with swaying reeds, where fish swim and frolic. The banks are covered with lush green orchids and fragrant herbs. Looking out, the vast green fields stretch for miles, dotted with herds of cattle and sheep. The immensity of the desert blends seamlessly with the gentle beauty of the water towns. Urad clothing includes the attire of the three Urad banners. The Urad tribe originally nomadized on the Hulunbuir grasslands. In 1649 (the 6th year of the Shunzhi Emperor's reign), by imperial decree, the Urad tribe moved from Hulunbuir to the fertile grasslands at the foot of the Yinshan Mountains north of the Hetao Plain, where they settled, multiplied, and have remained there ever since. Therefore, the styles of clothing in the three Urad banners are generally consistent, although there are some differences between the east and west, or between the north and south.
Ordos
Nestled between the winding Yellow River and the Great Wall lies an ancient and magical land—the world-renowned Ordos Plateau, one of the cradles of human civilization. Ordos, in Mongolian, means "the land of many palaces." According to historical records, the Ordos tribe, who guarded the mausoleum of Genghis Khan, arrived here in the mid-15th century, hence the name. For generations, the Ordos Mongols have lived and thrived on this ancient land, contributing significantly to the richness and development of Mongolian national costumes. It is well known that the Ordos Mongols are famous throughout the Mongolian people for their etiquette, with their headdresses (Zhaoya) being particularly elaborate from head to toe. Here, we will briefly introduce the costumes of the seven banners of Ordos and the Darguant tribe during the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China.
This group is more varied, rather like the northern group. There is no overarching style of Costume. It is shown in various shades of mid blue on the left of this map.
The name "Khoshut" means "two out of ten," and as a tribal name, it is related to the military organization of the ancient Mongols during their expeditions. To deal with a common enemy, the Mongols generally formed expeditionary forces by drawing two out of every ten households from various chiliarchies and biriaarchies. Legend has it that Uruq Temur, the eighth-generation descendant of Genghis Khan's eldest brother Khasar, failed to receive a good share from his brother Aruk Temur, and thus led his people westward to join the Oirat (Western) leader Toghon Taishi. Toghon Taishi bestowed upon his people the name "Khoshut," thus forming the Khoshut tribe, which later became one of the four Oirat tribes with forty thousand households. In the mid-to-late 16th century, the Khoshut were once the leaders of the four Oirat alliance. In 1637, Gushi Khan led a coalition of Oirat forces, mainly composed of Khoshut, to occupy Qinghai-Tibet, establishing the theocratic Khoshut Khanate there. In 1676, Ochirtu Chechen Khan, the Khoshut leader who remained in his homeland (present-day northern Xinjiang), was defeated by Galdan Bosok Khan of the Dzungar Khanate. Some of Ochirtu's Khoshut people, led by Khoroli, grandson of Gushi Khan, migrated eastward to the western Oirat region for nomadic herding. Subsequently, due to the war between the Dzungar Khanate and the Qing Dynasty, Khoroli led his people westward. In 1694, Khoroli and his followers returned to the Qing Dynasty. The Qing court allowed them to graze in Alashan. In 1697, the Qing court organized Khoroli's tribe into a Zuo-ling (military administrative unit) and established a Zasag (a military unit), which became the Alashan Oirat Khoshut Banner. The indigenous Khoshut people of the present-day Alashan Left and Right Banners of Alashan League, Inner Mongolia, originated from this tribe.
A part of the Mongols of the Alxa Banners are Moslem.You can see them separated in the map given above at the beginning of the western group.
The Mongolian people who adhere to Islam have lived in the eastern part of the Alashan Grassland for hundreds of years and are the only Mongolian ethnic group in China that practices Islam. From their ancestors to the present day, they have remained faithful to Islam, strictly observing its rules and yearning for the holy city of Mecca.
The Torgut are spread in several areas of the west of Mongolia, and also in the Ejin Banner of Inner Mongolia.
The clothing of the Ejina Torgut Mongols, from 1705 (the 44th year of the Kangxi Emperor's reign) when Horibujur, a nobleman of the Ejina Torgut, became the first Beile (prince), until 1958, maintained its distinctive tribal style. The continuous inheritance of Torgut clothing is closely related to their tribal history, natural environment, and their daily lives, including hunting, herding, and warfare. They proudly praise their clothing, saying, "In the biting cold of winter or the storms of summer, riding spirited steeds across the boundless grasslands to lasso horses, chase herds, drive away enemies, or hunt various wild animals, the pointed, arrow-shaped torghini hat remains unhindered by wind or rain. The flint and steel knife worn on their belts allows them to move more nimbly and swiftly across the vast grasslands, appearing even more handsome and majestic." Legend has it that their clothing is closely related to the military attire of ancient Mongolians.
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