I described the wedding costume we made for Orest and Cheryl in a previous post. Today i would like to show you all some examples of original costume pieces from that region.
One problem that we face today in replicating traditional costumes is finding cloth that works. There is some very nice linen available today, but it is not as heavy as the original homespun. On the one hand, it makes the garments cooler to wear, on the other hand, they do not move in the same way, and when the costume is smocked, then the 'tubes' do not come out in the same way they did originally. One usually has to compromise, and one can still get a very nice result.
Men's shirts from Turka county are well known in that they are embroidered on the shoulder, as most regions of Ukraine they are not. Here is a graphing of a man's shoulder piece from Krawchuk. Or rather, half of it.
You can see the joining stitch indicated towards the bottom. There are three rows of herringbone stitch indicated on the upper sleeve. I had assumed that this was schematic, and that the stitches would fill the area, only showing their execution by texture. When i actually saw an original shirt, i found that idea was mistaken. Here is a photo of the shoulder piece of a man's shirt. The embroidery has been reduced to the basic rectangle that forms the outline of the design above.
You can see, however that the design is basically the same, and that the herringbone is quite visible. The embroidering threads being finer than the ones in the homespun. Also like the graph, the joining stitch is visible, and three rows of herringbone on the upper sleeve. Here is a side view of the shoulder piece of the same shirt.
Here you can see the sleeve at left, the shoulder insert on top, and the main body of the shirt on the right. I had made Orest's shirt with the ustawka, the inset sewn on top of the main body, in the way that they do in central and Northern Halychyna. However, this shirt has the inset sewn on to the side of the shirt, and the whole top smocked into the collar, just visible at the upper right. This is the technique used in Podillia, Pokuttia and the Hutsul region. The even rows of gathers form part of the design, and one cannot get the same effect with lighter fabrics. Here is a photo of the collar of this shirt.
The photos were taken by Orest Lechnowsky, and the costumes are his private collection
L. Krawchuk, 'Ukrajinski Narodni Vyshywky L'viws'ka Oblast' [Ukrainian Folk Embroidery of Lviw Oblast], Kyjiw [Kiev] 1961