In my last posting i covered the Sokal'/Hrubieszow costume. Today i will present several examples of the distinct embroidery style which developed in this region. The embroidery was almost always in black cross-stitch, which argues against it being an old tradition. There is a lot of discussion as to the origin of this tradition, because it resembles nothing in nearby regions. There seems to be similarity to Chernyhiw embroidery, and some influence of the Baroque, but why this region developed this kind of embroidery remains a mystery. There were also found some of what became the sort of 'generic' Halychyna style in the 1920's and 30's, but i will keep those for another posting.
The earlier designs were geometric, which were later supplemented, and to some extent supplanted by floral designs. The purely geometric designs held on in the cuffs, which were exceptionally wide in this region. Here are a couple examples.
It is obvious that the overall composition was considered important. I will close with just a couple more examples. As is the case in other parts of Ukraine, expecially Volyn' and Polissia, sometimes the women decided to stretch the rules and make the embroidery on the sleeve vertical, rather than horizontal.
I could go on, but I think that this is enough for one posting. I hope that this inspires someone to make something beautiful to wear or use.
Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals.
Thank you again for reading.
Source Material: The challenge and the fun of doing this kind of research is that often there is just a little bit in any one source, so many sources need to be distilled.
L. Burachynska, 'Embroidery Designs Sokalschyna', Nashe Zhyttia, New York, 1980
Lesia Danchenko, 'Ukrainian Folk Art', Leningrad, 1982
Tetiana Kara-Vasylieva, 'Ukrajins'ka Vyshywka' [Ukrainian Embroidery], Kyjiw [Kiev], 1993
L. Krawchuk, 'Ukrajinski Narodni Vyshywky L'viws'ka Oblast' [Ukrainian Folk Embroidery of Lviw Oblast], Kyjiw [Kiev] 1961
Elzbieta Piskorz-Branelowa, 'Polskie Stroje Ludowe - tom 3' [Polish Folk Costumes, vol 3. a description of Folk costumes worn on Polish Territory] Warsaw, 2007
Stanislaw Gadomski, 'Stroj Ludowe w Polsce' [Folk Costume in Poland], Warsaw