Embroidery of the Hutsul Region, Part 4b, Kosiv - Curly Stitch

 

Hello all, 

Today I will continue to talk about the embroidery of the Kosiv region, by talking about a more unusual type of embroidery. This is called in Ukrainian 'kucheryavyj show', which translates as 'curly stitch'. This is found in parts of Podillia, Bukovyna, Pokuttia, and Romania, as well as in the region just east of the town of Kosiv. This is especially typical of the villages of Stary Kosiv, Smodna, Verbivets', Stary Kuty, but is also found to some extent in other villages in the immediate area. 

The term 'curly stitch' is sometimes used for standard stitches like outline stitch and cross stitch worked in a heavier thread, usually of wool, so that the design is defined more by texture than shape. This is common in southern Ternopil' oblast. Here the thread is not as heavy, but texture is still important. At the head of the article is a closeup of a sleeve from this region in my personal collection. Here is an image of the whole thing. 

You can see that the sleeve is covered by rows of embroidered rosettes, in this case all black. I suspect that it might be from Smodna. In other examples, the rosettes alternate a lively burgundy with royal blue or green. There seem to be two ways of making these rosettes. 

Here is a demonstration of the first one, which is used in the above example. 

Here is another example, which might be more accurate. 

This stitch may also be executed in red. 

Or indeed in multiple colors.

This stitch may also be used to create partial rosettes that interlock. 

There is another stitch which is used to create circular motifs. A central motif is laid down with a square or a cross stitch, and then a circle is executed around it with chain or stem stitch. 

This stitch is also often used to create the famous sleeves with stripes that have so often been recorded. This one is using stem stitch. 

And here is an example of one using chain stitch.

These circles are sometimes incorporated into other designs. 

One design common in this area includes joined double circles. Outline stitch and counted satin stitch are also used to form fields for motifs. 

Here we see examples of the same motif done as usual on the left, and with narrow thread on the right to show how it is executed.

There are sometimes narrow bands separating the shoulder inset embroidery from the sleeve embroidery, something which is more typical of Pokuttian rather than Hutsul embroidery. 

Here above we see a common motif on the sleeves which is formed from cross stitch in a heavy wool thread.

Below is an example of a slightly different design done on a sleeve in my personal collection.

In the following examples, the sleeve embroidery consists of eight pointed stars executed in counted satin stitch with a heavy wool thread. 

Here is an example of another design from this region done mostly in satin stitch. Examples from Stary Kosiv and Verbivets'.

Another shirt from Kobaky, using chain stitch. 

The lower sleeve is sometimes executed in an unusual stitch called shtepuvannia, which is a type of topwinder. 

At first glance, these embroideries might look simplistic, but they are actually very sophisticated. Some more images of this type of embroidery. 

Stary Kosiv

Verbovets'

Here we see a couple examples of this type of embroidery imitated with beadwork.  

A man's shirt from this region. 

Thank you for reading. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. I hope that some of you may be tempted to try your hands at this style of embroidery. 

Roman K. 

email: rkozakand@aol.com