FolkCostume&Embroidery

Hello all,

Today I would like to talk about Dobrudja, also spelled Dobrogea, Dobruca, Dobrudzha, Добруджа, and even Tomrîğa. This is the territory between the easternmost bend of the Danube River and the Black Sea. This region has a long and complicated history which you may read about in the link below. Today the territory is mainly split between Bulgaria and Romania, with a few small islands, [including the famous Snake Island] as well as the neighboring region of Budzhak belonging to Ukraine, information on which is also in a link below. In Romania it is divided between Tulcea and Constanta Counties, in Bulgaria, Silistra and Dobrich Provinces, and in Ukraine the Budzhak region of Odesa Oblast.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dobruja

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Budjak

The ethnic composition of this region is very mixed, and has been so for hundreds of years. It includes Bulgarians, Romanians, Aromanians, Turks, Crimean Tatars, Nogay Tatars, Gagauz, Russians, Ukrainians, Lipovans, plus colonies of Germans, Greeks, and others. I have found several ethnographic maps from different time periods, but they mostly lump some of these groups together rather randomly. Here is one example from 1918. In this map, Russians, Ukrainians and Lipovans are lumped together, as are Greeks and Gagauz, and Turks and Tatars.

And here is another one of just the delta region, including part of Budzhak, in somewhat more detail, separating Turks from Tatars and indicating Cossacks, [Ukrainians].

Here is a map of the Romanian side from the beginning of the 20th Cent.

And one of Budzhak. Note that ethnic Romanians are here called Moldovans.

Since that time, some "exchange of populations" has occurred, notably in 1940, and the region is somewhat more uniform.

Romanians

The folk costume of the Romanians in Dobrogea does not vary that much.

The chemise, here called Cămașa, does not resemble that found in the neighboring regions of Muntenia or Moldavia. There is a rectangular yoke around the neck, to which the body and sleeves are attached.

A work chemise for everyday may have no embroidery at all.

And even dress chemises will have a minimum of embroidery, no more than one band. The chemise may have ornamental joining stitches on the seams.

Here are some examples of typical embroidery from this region.

The lower body garments consist of either two aprons, which do not match, or a front apron over a skirt.

The front apron is woven in simple stripes or plaid for everyday. See also the two photos above.

The dress aprons tend to have two vertical stripes on the edges. In Constanta County, the center is much simpler, while in Tulcea County, the center is often more elaborate.

As you can see in the above images, the head covering, especially in the southern regions may be a fez with maramă, or a simple kerchief with ornamented edges.

In Tulcea, one sometimes sees a large shawl with fringes wrapped around the head, as is also found among the Bulgarians and other ethnic groups. This may be worn over an ornamented cap.

The men's outfit takes two basic forms, one with a very long shirt and linen pants, this is older and more appropriate for hot weather. Or the shirt is tucked into wide woolen chakshire. Both are commonly worn with wool socks, moccasins, and a wide sash. A variety of typical Balkan vests, jackets, cloaks and hats are worn with these. It was often difficult to distinguish men's ethnicity by dress alone.

For Budzhak, I have found little information. Here are some women from Giurgiulești, just over the border in Moldova

Bulgarians

The Treaty of Craiova in 1940, which established the current border, required an "exchange of populations".

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treaty_of_Craiova

Bulgarians were forced to move to South Dobrudja, while Romanians, Aromanians and Megleno-Romanians were forced to move to North Dobrudja. Thus few Bulgarians are now found on the Romanian side of the border, but they remain a significant part of the population of Budzhak, from which they also settled a couple of other localities on the Ukrainian coast. The folklore of 'Northern Dobrudja' is still remembered by the resettled population. The photo below shows folk costumes, left to right of, Romanian of Costanta, Bulgarian from Silistra, Bulgarian from Tulcea, and Gagauz from Budzhak.

"Southern Dobrudja" strictly speaking, consists of the Oblasts of Silistra and Dobrich in Bulgaria. The northern parts of the Oblasts of Varna, Shumen, and Razgrad, are sometimes also included in the cultural region of Dobrudja.

The Bulgarian chemise, called simply riza, has a very basic cut which is common throughout the Balkans. It does not vary substantially within Dobrudja. There may be some embroidery, especially on the cuffs and hem, but this varies with the local region.

The lower body is covered either by a double apron, similar to the Romanian costume of Costanta, or an apron with a skirt. The skirt may have a flounce cut on the bias. The work apron is woven in simple stripes or in plaid, as in the Romanian part of Dobrudja.

In Silistra, the older festive dress has aprons very similar to those found in Constanta, with ornamented sides and a rather plain center. These are worn with a separate vest or jacket on the torso. The older costume had a back apron, sometimes pleated, replaced by a skirt in newer costumes.

Here are examples from Popina,

Alfatar

Staro Selo near Tutrakan. Note that here we see a rectangular yoke as in the Romanian Costumes.

and Srebrna. These images show a distinctive headdress worn by brides. Some of these examples show shoulder embroidery.

A few more images of the Folk Costume of Silistra. The men's costume is typical for Bulgaria.

Aprons with an allover design are also seen, but less frequently. These might show influence from Northern Dobrudzha.

Dobrich

The original costume of Dobrich seems to have been similar to that of Silistra.

Here are some examples.

Some villages, notably Malina in Dobrich Oblast, have been settled by Bulgarians from Tulcea County, and wear that costume.

North Dobrudja

A couple of the old costumes from Constanța County have been preserved.

But the most well known Bulgarian Dobrudzhan folk costume is that which is native to Tulcea County. This consists of riza [chemise], soukman [ jumper or skirt with bodice], apron, and a large fringed shawl wrapped around the head. A jacket may be worn over the bodice and apron. This is now widely worn in South Dobrudzha as well. You will notice a few images where a separate skirt and vest are worn.

Just a few more images of the details in the modern costume.

Budzhak

Bulgarians in Ukraine live in the Budzhak region, from which they have also settled some areas near the shore of the sea of Azov. I have found images showing three different types of costume used.

1. Older costume, from the period when people generally made their own. These are the most distinctive.

2. Urbanized clothing, based perhaps on Bulgarian City clothing. This became very popular in more recent times.

3. You will see in festivals from this area people wearing commercially available stage costumes, often Dobrudjan, but sometimes from far flung parts of Bulgaria that in no way resemble local tradition.

Greeks

Historically, Greeks have inhabited parts of the coast of Dobrogea, but today they remain in only two villages, Sulina Σουλινάς, and Izvoarele - Ιζβοάρελε, formerly known as Alibeichioi -

Αλιβειχιοι, both in Tulcea county.

The folk costume of this village is taken from the Bulgarian tradition. Here is a photo showing the old costume on the right, and the new on the left.

The main difference is that the old costume relied on people weaving their own aprons, etc. The new costume is completely made from commercially available materials. Note that both include the large fringed shawl typical of Tulcea, plus the jewelry on the head. Some more images.

I have found only two images of Greeks who inhabit the coast of Ukraine.

Turks

Turks, of course, settled in this area when it was part of the Ottoman Empire. They have been relatively unaffected by the "exchange of populations", and still form a significant minority on both sides of the border. They are not much talked about, however, and often consider themselves to be unfairly ignored. There are not many in Budzhak, however.

One costume which was found sporadically is the bindalli. This is an urban Ottoman style, basically a dress which is richly embroidered with gold. This was worn by those who were well off.

This photograph is of a Sephardic Jewish woman wearing one of these.

Most Turks, of course, were not so well off, and wore a combination of chemise, harem pants and various jackets, vests and kerchiefs. Here are some old photos.

The following images are from a presentation of Folk Costumes in Constanta, Romania. I believe that these are various Turkish Costumes. The presenter in the orange shirt, however, is wearing Gagauz costume.

I am really unsure about this one. It looks Pomak, but I am unaware that any lived in Dobrogea. Does anyone know?

Germans

The Dobrudschadeutsche settled in this area around 1840 or so. They numbered some 16,000 when they were removed to Germany in the aftermath of the Treaty of Craiova. They never developed a distinctive tracht, but I offer some photos of this community.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dobrujan_Germans