Today i am going to talk about the costume and embroidery of Zagrebačko Prigorje, in Croatia.
Croatia is known to its inhabitants as Hrvatksa. For history and more information on Croatia see this article.
Croatia has an incredible variety of folk costumes. Ethnographers consider Croatia to cover three distict ethnographic zones, the Pannonian, in the eastern plains, the Dinaric, in the mountains inland from the coast, and the Adriatic or Littoral, on the islands and the coast itself. The people are mostly Croatian or Serbian, with small minorities of Italians, Vlachs, and Romance-speaking Dalmatians in Istria. Three major dialect families are spoken, one of which, the Shto dialect, is also spoken in Serbia, Montenegro, and Bosnia-Hercegovina. The Kaj dialect was traditionally spoken in the country and hills around Zagreb, and the Cha dialect is spoken on the coast, especially around the city of Dubrovnik.
The costumes of the three ethnographic zones are very different from one another. Here is a map of Croatia showing roughly the exent of the three zones. Note that the zones actually extend farther beyond the borders of Croatia, but that is not the scope of this map.
The Pannonian zone is shown by green hatching, the Dinaric by brown, the Adriatic or Littoral in violet, and this map shows the influence of the Alpine zone along the border with Slovenia in yellow. The region i am covering today, Prigorje, is found just outside the capitol of Zagreb and is marked on this map.
The Prigorje costume is one of two which are commonly considered to represent Croatia as a whole. The other is the extremely beautifully embroidered Posavina costume. Here are some representations of the Prigorje costume taken from various sources. This costume is extremely popular with Croatian Folk Groups.
The man's costume is based on a linen shirt with the basic east Croatian cut. It has the same vertical and horizontal bands of woven or embroidered ornament as the woman's. The collar is sometimes done in white on white surface stitching or other embroidery. Here is the cut.
Here are a couple of websites i found with more informatiion: The second one is by Ruzmarinka. I have given links to several of the pages of her blog, which is in Croatian.
Hvala lepa Ruzmarinko!!
At this one you can buy Croatian Costume Pieces.
Ruzmarinka writes about her village costume in general:
Ruzmarinka shows in detail how to make and embroidery a rubača, including the openwork in the bottom of the front two seams.
Ruzmarinka shows off the embroidery she made for a man's shirt.
And finally, two videos, This one is by Ruzmarinka, a bunch of photos, including ones of her, set to quite schmaltzy music.
And this one is of the famous Prigorje dance suite by the performing group Lado.
Ivankovic & Sumenic, 'Croatian National Costumes', Zagreb, 2001
Vladimir Kirin, 'Narodne Nosnje Jugoslavije - Hrvatska', Zagreb, 1986
Mary Gostelow, 'The Complete International Book of Embroidery', New York, 1977
Ribaric/Szenczi, 'Vezak Vezla - Croatian Folk Embroidery', Zagreb, 1973
Jelka Ribaric et al, 'The Folk Costumes of Croatia', Zagreb, 1975
Vjekoslav Majer et al, 'Zagreb and its Surroundings',Zagreb, 1975
Walter Kolar, 'Croatians - Costumes they Wear', Pittsburgh, 1975
Nikola Pantelic, 'Traditional Arts and Crafts in Yugoslavia', Belgrade, 1984
Vladimir Salopek, 'Folk Costumes and Dances of Yugoslavia, Zagreb, 1987
Postcards in personal collection
National Geographic Magazine