Hello all,
Today I would like to talk about a Folk Costume tradition which is no longer alive. This is that of the Swedish Estonian community once found on the Pakri Islands, Pakri saared in Estonian, and Rågöarna in Swedish.
These two islands are found off the western coast of Harjumaa, near the city of Paldiski.
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The two islands are named, in Estonian, Suur-Pakri and Väike-Pakri - in Swedish: Stora Rågö and Lilla Rågö, big and little islands, respectively.
Swedes have inhabited these islands since at least 1345. Being somewhat isolated, they kept their distinctive Swedish dialect into the 20th cent. In 1940, during WWII, all inhabitants of the islands were removed, most emigrated to Sweden. The islands remain without permanent inhabitants today.
The folk costume falls into the general style of Harjumaa.
The foundation garment is a sleeveless chemise, särk in both languages.
Over this are worn the sleeves, ävedailn in Swedish, or käised in Estonian. These are embellished with possible embroidery on the epaulettes, collar, cuffs, and lace on the hem, at least in back.
The skirt, imerk in Swedish, seelik in Estonian, was of black wool, pleated, with chainstitch embroidery and braid adorning the hem, the braid also to help keep the hem from fraying. The pleats were preserved by rolling and tying the skirt.
The sash, lind in Swedish and vöö in Estonian. The sash was woven in two patterns, changing in the middle. The ends were tucked into the sash, and the sash covered the skirt's waistband.
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The apron, skädek in Swedish and põll in Estonian. Generally of cotton with applique.
The stockings were knitted of red wool, re sockar in Swedish, and sukad in Estonian.
These were worn with moccasins that were laced up the leg, tvängjat skôar in Swedish. and pastlad in Estonian.
A red shoulder shawl, called hädduk in Swedish, was worn. This garment was very uncommon among Estonians.
A natural wool jacket, stjärtjack in Swedish, kampsun in Estonian, was worn. This was similar to other short jackets of northern Estonia.
A more modern garment, made of imported calico, was called Sitsjakk. The cloth for these was probably a gift from sailors to their women.
For cold weather, a long coat of heavy homespun was worn. This was called kjohl in Swedish and pikk-kuub in Estonian.
My sources emphasize that Swedish girls always braided their hair. This seems to imply that Estonian girls did not. I have noticed this in some old photos. "Colorful ribbons, mostly red, were woven into their hair, and the braids were tied around their heads." This can be seen in the following print.
Married women would put up their hair, and then wear a braid, fasttoppar in Swedish, vahr in Estonian, to give shape to the headdress.
The everyday cap, called miss in Swedish, and argitan in Estonian, was of a red based calico, with lace on the forehead for married women. If the woman was in mourning, the material would be dark blue or black.
In winter, this would be lined.
For Sundays and Holidays, the cap would be of white linen. This was called lû in Swedish and pidumüts in Estonian. This also had lace on the forehead. It had a string which was wrapped around the back of the neck and tied on the forehead.
A red ribbon was tied over the cap to cover the indentation made by the cord.
Jewelry included silver necklaces, often with coins, and ring brooches that pinned the upper garments together.
One particular ornament worn by these Swedes was the Oppomhalsduk. This was a ribbon, about 5 cm wide, ornamented with lace, embroidery, etc. and was tied under the collar.
For her wedding, a Swedish girl from these islands would wear a neck ruff and a crown.
A few more images of this costume and other coastal Swedes.
Mens clothing from this area is much less distinctive. Linen shirt, breeches, long dark stockings, vest, frock coat.
Thank you for reading, I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative.
Roman K.
email: rkozakand@aol.com
Source Material:
Most of the information was taken from these two websites, one Swedish and one Estonian.
