Today I am continuing my article with the men's costume of this area. The men's costume underscores the fact that this region is the confluence of two Highlander peoples, the Lemkos or Rusyns who live to the east, and the Górale or Gorali who live to the west.
In this general area, the men enthusiastically keep and wear their traditional costume. The plate at top shows the costume as worn in the early 19th cent. It has since become more elaborated.
The main item is a linen shirt with long full sleeves. There is nothing particularly distinctive about it, and is sometimes replaced today with a modern white shirt.
Here is a Lemko man from Bila Voda working in his shirtsleeves.
Simple linen pants are worn in summer for everyday and for work. These are on a drawstring.
In cooler weather, and for dress occasions, heavy wool pants are worn over them. These are the signature garment for highland men. These are always the cream color of natural wool. In many areas they have two front openings at the waist, but in the Shliakhtova Szczawnica area, they have just one. The waist is folded over, and a leather belt or strong cord holds the pants closed.
Originally the front opening, the pocket slit and the open seam on the lower legs was simply decorated with cord and red cloth applique. Later simple embroidery came to be used.
In the 20th cent. these embroideries became more elaborate. You can see a progression here.
Here you can see an example of the older simpler pants on the upper right, and the more elaborate newer pants on the lower left.
As tthe 20th century progressed, a second pocket was added on the other side, and floral designs began to be incorporated into the embroidery under the influence of the Podhale costume.
These examples are from Sromowce.
This is from Spišská Stará Ves.
Further west, in the area around Kacwin and Trybsz on the Polish side, and extending to Matiašovce
and Hanušovce on the Slovak side, the pants have two openings, and the embroidery is different, sometimes incorporating cording.
Here is the cut of the pants in this area.
Around Jurgow the pants were also embroidered, but in a different style. This has also gotten more elaborate and floral with time.
The man in the center is an itenerant worker from Bila Voda.