Hello all, today I will conclude the series on Icelandic costume by talking a bit about the men's costume, the Þjóðbúningur karla. This is a direct descendant of traditional clothing.
The base is a white cotton or linen shirt with the typical Scandinavian construction, with narrow bands on the shoulders and a band collar.
Traditionally knickers were worn, but today long pants may also be worn. There is a flap in front, and suspenders are used. Ornamented silver buttons are found on the pants, and there may be a lacing in back to accomodate later growth.
If knickers are worn, then knee socks are necessary. These come over the calf, and must be held up by sokkebonde, garters which are either finger-woven or braided. These are simply wrapped around the leg above the calves, and serve to keep the socks up. The socks tend to be plain brown or gray wool, without designs. Here are a couple of guys doing traditional wrestling.
Knickers button at the bottom. Pants and knickers may be black, navy, dark gray, etc.
There is more color in the vests, which are always double-breasted, perhaps as a result of Danish influence.
There are always two rows of buttons in the front, and commonly a silk kerchief is tied around the neck.
A short stocking-cap with tassel is part of the costume as well.
A jacket, treyja, may be worn over the vest, with buttons on the sleeves.
Alternatively, the jacket may be double-breasted, and the vest may be omitted. Jackets with a single row of buttons are also known, and these are called peysa.
Regular shoes may be worn with the costume, or silver buckled shoes, but the most traditional are thin leather moccasin type shoes of either fish or sheep leather, called roðskór and sauðskinssk, respectively. Women often wear these types of shoes as well.
Colorful knitted woolen inserts were worn inside.
Colorful mittens were knitted as well, but not worn in the belt as they are in some other countries.
A good article on the various types of buningur.
Here is the Heimilisiðnaðarsafnið textile museum website
The Iceland national costume website. I have relied heavily on this site for information.
Hildur Hermóðsdóttir, 'Icelandic National Costumes' Reykjavik, 2012
Elsa Gudjónsson, 'Traditional Icelandic Embroidery', Reykjavik, 1982
Charles Holme, 'Peasant art in Sweden, Lappland and Iceland', London, 1910
Frederik Christian Lund, 'Danske Nationaldragter', 1915
Bunad Magazine nr 4, Dec. 2012
Jamed Snowden, 'The Folk Dress of Europe', 1979