My research into the costumes of Savoy has led to more material than I expected. The costumes of the lower main valley of Maurienne are only slightly different from that of Orelle, which I covered in the last posting. Today I will cover the costume of two side valleys of lower Maurienne, the costume of Montaimont in the Bugeon valley on the north side of the main valley, and the costume of the Villard valley on the south side,which joins the Arc at about the same place.You can see Montaimont and St. Colomban des Villards in the center of this map of the lower Maurienne. For a larger map of the area, see my posting introducing Savoy.
This photograph was taken in 1920. The dress is similar to that of most of Maurienne, except that the bodice is open and secured by ribbons laced through the edge. A dickey is worn underneath the bodice, resembling the plastron of Tarentaise, which is just over the mountains to the north. The coif is white, and of a type we have not seen before, similar only to the coif of the valley of Villards.
Young girls wear a simpler costume, and as you can see, the men's costume is no longer worn. The best time to see costumes in Maurienne is on the feast of the 15th of August.
The fichu is pinned in three folds, and the daily coif is much simpler.
Just a few more images of the costume of Montaimont.
Valley of Villards
The Villard valley has two municipalities, St. Alban and St. Colomban. The second is much better known than the first. This costume is intermediate between those of Montaimont and the Arvan Valley. The coif greatly resembles that of Montaimont.
The jacket and skirt are separate in this valley. The jacket has ornamental buttons and embroidery on the sleeves. The jacket does not close, but is laced up with a ribbon or cord. Take a close look at the image above and this one.
While the everday skirt is gathered, the festive skirt is made of black cloth with forty accordion pleats. At some distance below the waist, four or eight strips of blue cloth are sewn onto the skirt. This skirt is somewhat shorter than in the rest of Maurienne.
A precautionary note here, be careful of your sources. I have a set of very nice prints of the costumes of Savoy, but like many that were made early in the 20th century, they were drawn from black-and-white photographs, and so the colors were made up. The strips on the skirt are always blue.
A wide cincture is worn with this costume. It lies under the wide band of the apron, and over the bottom edge of the jacket The edges of the jacket are ornamented.
The normal cincture is embroidered for more festive occasions.
For the most festive version of the costume, a large silk sash is wrapped around from behind, and pinned with a few brooches so that the ends hang down on the front of the apron.
As in other parts of Savoy, a large cross is an integral part of the costume.
There are ribbons hanging down the back over the shawl, sometimes beaded, which are called the 'flats'.
To finish, just a few more views of this costume.
Thank you for reading, I hope you have found this interesting and informative.
Daniel Dequier, 'Maurienne d'Hier et d'Aujourd'hui', Albertville, 1980
G. Collomb, 'Les Costumes de Savoie', Chambery, 1972
Fabian et Anne da Costa, 'Costumes Traditionels de Savoie', Lyons, 2000
Daniel Dequier & Francois Isler, 'Costumes de Fete en Savoie', Seyssinet, 2002
R. Feuillie, 'Quelques Costumes de Savoie', Annecy,
Andre Sainsard, 'Costumes Folkloriques Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1972
Royere, Gardilanne, Moffat et al, 'Les Costumes Regionaux de la France', New York, 1929
Charles-Brun, 'Costumes des Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1937
P. Leroux, 'Costumes Regionaux', Paris, 1940
Caroline Brancq, 'Les Costumes regioneaux d'Autrefois', Paris, 2003