Today I will restrict my writing to one garment, the Kyptar, also spelled Keptar. This is the sheepskin vest which is so distinctive to the Hutsul costume. The sheepskin vest itself is of course worn throughout the Carpathian region and beyond, by Polish, Slovaks, Hungarians, Romanians, Croatians, Bulgarians, and also in other parts of Ukraine, and some of them are very richly decorated, but the Hutsul Kyptar is obvious at a glance. The cut is very simple, the sides being straight or slightly expanding towards the bottom. Unusually, neither the cut nor the ornamentation varies by gender. The only difference between a man's Kyptar and a woman's is the size, You can see in the two photos above, that they are equally elaborate. The fleece is always worn on the inside, unlike some places in Western Europe, where they wear the fleece on the outside.
I. Kosiw style.
This, as well as the two above and the images folowing, is a Kyptar of the 'Kosiw' type. This is found in the northern part of the Hutsul region, from the villages immediately around Kosiw west through Kolomyja district and also around Jaremcha. As in all Kyptary, the seams are always ornamented. A major feature of kyptar ornamentation is the sylianka. This is a strip of white thin leather with slits cut into it, and through the slits flat laces of dark leather are woven, usually three or four of them side by side, woven alternately so as to form a sort of checkerboard, which is then appliqued onto the kyptar. In this type of kyptar, the sylianky are placed over the seams, all around the edges, a horizontal line on the back, two 'princess' lines also on the back that intersect it, and three rows on the front to make the decorative panel. Teeth of dyed moroccan leather are appliqued around all the edges and the sylianka lines on the back. The teeth emanating from the front panel are curved, either up or down. The moroccan leather also forms the 'rachky', 'crayfish' shapes which in this type of kyptar are scattered on the bottom portion. The moroccan leather applique are studded with metal eyelets, and edged with wool cord, usually green and orange, and small pompoms are attached at the tips, and in the middle of the front panel. The edges are trimmed with curly lambs wool strips, which are also placed on the collar.
This famous photo of a wedding couple is from the village of Kornych near Kolomyja. This is at the northern edge of the Hutsul region, and some people consider it to be part of Pokuttia. Wedding headresses in this district are exceptionally large.
This woman is from the village of Jabluniw northwest of Kosiw.
The following garment is from the village of Pistyn' near Kosiw.
This kyptar is from the village of Sokoliwka near Kosiw.
This one seems to be from the village of Mykulychyn, although the embroidery on the chemise is Kosmach.
This is from the town of Verkhovyna.
This one is from the village of Javoriw in Kosiw district.
IV. Rakhiw style.
This example is from the village of Bohdan in Rakhiw district.
The kyptar in the following two images are from the village of Kosiws'ka Poliana in Rakhiw district.
This type is found in the valley of the White Cheremosh river, from the twin villages of Roztoky, one on each side of the river in Kosiw and Putyla districts, south on both sides of the river into Verkhovyna district, as well as the tributary valleys. The teeth and sometimes the sylianky reappear. There are sometimes two extra seams sewn into the lower back, forming a princess line. These flare towards the bottom. This seam is ornamented with sylianky and moroccan leather applique. The red moroccan leather [sapianka] is the major design element, forming various sorts of florar motifs on both the front and the back. This applique is always edged with wool cording, and enhanced with metal eyelets as well. You can see various permutations in the three photos below.
This is from the village of Putyliw
The following two images are from the village of Roztoky on the Bukovynian side.
This example is from the village of Holovy, southeastern part of Verkhovyna district near Bukovynian Hutsulshchyna.
This one is from the village of Hryniava in Verkhovyna district.
This piece is from the village of Dowhopillia in Cherniwtsi Oblast.
VI. Peredhiria Style.
This type is found in the foothills of the southeast edge of the Hutsul region in Chernivets' oblast, as well as among the Hutsul population of Romania. These two black and white photos were taken in Romania, the colored drawings below are of a garment from Chernivets' oblast. This type is cut longer than most and flares towards the bottom. There is some moroccan leather applique on the front panel, and sylianky, moroccan leather applique and lambskin fleece around the edges. but the majority of the ornament takes the form of embroidery in cursive floral motifs executed in polychrome satin stitch. This style of embroidery is closer to that of the Hungarians and Romanians in Transylvania than it is to most other types of Hutsul embroidery, and adds yet another dimension to the palette of ornament of the Ukrainian People.
This kyptar is from the village of Putyla in Bukovynian Hutsul territory.