There is a seperate piece on the shoulders, often refered to as the inset. The sleeves are sewn on to the body of the chemise, and there is a gusset underneath.The seam can be seen in the photo below the top wide red stripe. Thus the shoulder seam actually falls several inches below the shoulder. This is actually the case for all traditional clothing, especially shirts and chemises. I have one shirt which i bought, that whoever sewed it did not reallise this, and the body is so narrow noone can wear it. These days this is called a 'drop shoulder' seam, but in fact it is the norm for historical garments. You will notice that instead of a wristband, the end of the sleeve is gathered to form a ruffle. This is common in Bielorussian chemises. In this case, it is somewhat shorter than the skirt, unlike Ukrainian or Bulgarian costumes in which the bottom hem of the chemise deliberately shows.
I based this costume mostly on the following drawing, which is from a small pamphlet called 'National Costumes of the Soviet Peoples' which shows how to sew a standardized simplified version of the 15 national costumes of the Soviet Union.
The headband was made from another long narrow piece of cloth with some of the woven design sewn onto the end.
as you can see in this back view. Here is an old photgraph showing an older woman wearing a similar headband.
You will notice that she is wearing a cap underneath the headband. Traditionally, all married women kept their hair covered in public. This was extremely widespread over Europe and beyond, and there were all sorts of superstitions concerning women's hair. You will also notice that her chemise has a narrow piece on the shoulder, and a decorative joining at the top of the sleeve where it is attached to the shoulder piece and body. Her chemise has woven ornamentation, but often they are embroidered instead, or in addition to having a woven design.
Her skirt is striped instead of Plaid, both are common in Belarus. Some might be surprised to find plaids in folk costumes this far east, but in fact plaids are very common and widespread in folk textiles. They are after all, only stripes run both ways.
The skirt is full, hand gathered/smocked into the waistband. For those of you wanting to make traditional outfits, traditional skirts are never tiered, except perhaps in the south of Spain. This is another modern tendency. Traditional skirts are usually about 4 to 5 yards around. Looking at the pics, i would make the skirt longer if i were doing it now.
There should be a sash, either braided or inkle or card woven, with a design, like one of the following.
Below are a couple of other examples of Bielorussian costume. These are all more or less from the south-central part of the country.
Thank you once more for visiting, and rembember that i welcome any particular questions or suggestions for the blog or for research that you might be wanting to conduct.