Gradska Nošnja, Town Costume of Split and the central Dalmatian Coast, Croatia

Hello all,

Today i am going to continue my last article by talking about 'Gradska Nošnja', that is, the 'Town Costume', of central Dalmatia in general, and Split in particular. Again i am focusing on Split because I have more information from there. You can see one version of the formal Town Costume from Split above. This costume is used by the Croatian National Folk Ensemble Lado for a suite of dances from that city. This resulted in the costume being widely known and copied. The 'Town Costume' of the Dalmatian Coast is rooted in the indigenous clothing tradition of the area, but also owes a great deal to foreign influences, especially from Italy and Spain. It relies on imported and expensive commercially made fabric, as well as lace, ribbons, beadwork, elaborate jewelry, etc. This was never worn day-to-day, but was put on for special occasions. Split was not the only city to develop such a 'Town Costume'. Similar but distinct outfits were also worn in Novigrad,

 

in Zadar,

  in Kaštela,

 in Trogir,

on Šolta

on Brač

in Omiš

in Potomje,

in Orebić,

As well as other places. To return to Split, here are a couple more views of the outfit, front and back.

 For the formal costume, the chemise is not worn, although the petticoat is, see my previous posting on the everyday costume. The pleated skirt of fine material, Brnica may be worn, as you saw in the previous posting, but another option, as you see here, is a gathered and flared skirt of black silk damask. Plain black satin is often used today.

One variation of this costume includes the bodice, korpet, as in the everyday costume, but made of brocade, and with larger and more numerous silver buttons. The cut of the korpet may be found in my previous posting.

Over the korpet is worn a black silk jacket called kurtina, which ties around the waist.

The cuffs of the kurtina are decorated in various ways with black lace, braid, ribbon and/or beadwork.

In place of the bodice, korpet , a plastron with attached collar, the peturin may be worn.

In this case, the jacket has a piece which closes all the way in front to hold it in place.

 The formal apron is not pleated, but is sewn of three flared pieces from colored satin, silk or brocade which may be of various colors.

 These are always made of very ornate materials, and then trimmed with lace, ribbons, trim, fringe, bows, rosettes, ruched ribbon, and other furbelows, so that no two are alike. Sometimes the bottom hem makes a smooth curve, as above, but sometimes the side pieces are made longer than the center one, to make an interesting line, like these. See also the image at the head of this article.

A large bow, called Fjok, is tied so that it hangs down in back. This always matches the apron, and is meant to look like the apron ties in back. This exact garment is also found in Spain. The bottom edge may have beadwork or embroidery, if the material is a solid color. It may have fringe, it may end in a straight line or a point.

The fjok should hang almost to the hem of the skirt.

A white silk triangular scarf with gold embroidery and fringe, the zlatni sudar, may be worn over the shoulders, as in the everyday costume.

More commonly, however, a shaped fichu, called Berta, is worn. This may also be of white satin with gold embroidery and lace.

Or it may be made to match the apron and fjok, with similar trim and furbelows. The exact outline, especially in back, varies.

The outfit, is of course incomplete without the appropriate accessories. Rich filigree jewelry, rings, brooches, necklaces, earrings and hairpins.

As well as a folding fan, the ventula.

Thank you for reading. I hope you have found this interesting and perhaps inspiring.

Here is the Croatian National Ensemble, Lado, performing a suite of very elegant dances from Split in this costume. The women's aprons, while of various colors all have the same shape.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mM6Tfdzt1mU&feature=related

Here is another group performing another version of this suite. This group has a wider range of both ages and costume variations.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7NhE0fkxF0 

Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance.

Roman K.

Rkozakand@aol.com

Source Material:

Ilda Vidovic-Begonja, 'Narodna Nošnja Splita', Zagreb, 1988

Ivankovic & Sumenic, 'Croatian National Costumes', Zagreb, 2001

Vladimir Kirin, 'Narodne Nošnje Jugoslavije - Hrvatska', Zagreb, 1986
Ribaric/Szenczi, 'Vezak Vezla - Croatian Folk Embroidery', Zagreb, 1973
Jelka Ribaric et al, 'The Folk Costumes of Croatia', Zagreb, 1975
Walter Kolar, 'Croatians - Costumes they Wear', Pittsburgh, 1975
Nikola Pantelic, 'Traditional Arts and Crafts in Yugoslavia', Belgrade, 1984
Vladimir Salopek, 'Folk Costumes and Dances of Yugoslavia, Zagreb, 1987
Mariana Gusic, 'Traditional Femole [sic] Headgear in Croatian Folk Costume', Zagreb
Postcards in personal collection