I made some reference in my last posting to the 5 types of Russian folk costume, and I thought that I would do a quick summary to introduce them. I should do the same for the 5 types of Ukrainian Costume. That will be forthcoming.
These refer stictly to the women's costume. The men's costume does vary, but not a whole lot. Shirt, usually with opening on the side, usually on the left, pants, narrow sash, boots or footcloths with lapty, Overcoat.
Type 1 Sarafan.
I have seen this term translated as 'jumper', which works for Americans, but not for the British, also as 'sundress', which is rediculous, it is better to just use the Russian term Sarafan. This garment is basically a long skirt, worn just below the arms with straps over the shoulders. A Chemise is worn underneath, the collar area and sleeves showing. It may be belted or not. Here is a drawing by Max Tilke showing three ways to wear what might be called the 'aristocratic' version, although this was worn by peasants.
The woman in the middle is wearing the Sarafan by itself, with a Chemise, the one on the left is wearing it with a vest, cut basically the same as the Sarafan but shorter, and the woman on the right is wearing it with a jacket. This type of Sarafan is called 'kosoklyny', which means 'angle-cut', and was made from rich bought material, velvet, brocade, damask, etc. Often decorated with ribbons, galloons and metal lace.
Max also gives us the cut, the side seams are at a 45 degree angle.
As you can see, you basically end up with a cone shape. Sometimes there is an opening down the front, with buttons. There are other cuts used. One which is more typical for ordinary peasants is basically cylindrical,
narrowed into a top band with pleats or gathers, of locally produced or home woven cloth. There is quite a variety of detail in these outfits, and the accessories vary quite a bit. Here is one example from the village of Zhemkova, county Syzran, Province Symbirsk, made of hand printed calico. You can see the gathers at the top.